Bulls Eye Quilt Tutorial

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Hey Everyone!

I've been working on hand-quilting my bulls eye quilt and so I've been discussing it online.  I've had a couple of requests for directions on how to do one so here goes!

Keep in mind, I'm not an expert quilter or photographer.  In other words:  please, be kind!

I've only done one bulls eye quilt top so far.  It's going to be used in some of the photos near the bottom of this tutorial.  For this demonstration, I'm using white/black and black/white for my backgrounds because I like them.   You can use whatever your little heart desires, but remember that contrast between your squares of fabric and your circles of fabric is what makes this type of quilt "pop".

Here are the squares I'm using:

You will want to cut your squares 11".  If you follow all of the steps I outline here, your finished individual blocks will be 5" square.  There is an option part-way through that will give you the choice to end up with 10½" finished blocks (don't stop there though, the smaller blocks are way more fun!).

Next, you're going to need some sort of circle templates at roughly 8", 6" and 4" in diameter.  Dinner plates, bowls, and glasses are free options to try.  I have made my own out of the same type of acrylic that most quilt rulers are made from.  Unfortunately, this is not something you can do at home.  I can because I own a trophy shop as my "real job" and I have a laser engraving machine that will cut the acrylic.  Mine are covered with "stuff" because I use this acrylic on top of weird objects I need to engrave so I can check layouts without damaging the actual item.  Once they get too much engraving on them, I recycle them into quilting templates and rulers.

To make cutting your fabric circles with a rotary cutter, a rotating cutting mat is wonderful!  Mine has seen better days (which is why a new one is already on it's way to my lair home.

Here are the fabrics I'm going to use on the black fabric square:

The one that you will notice the most is actually whatever fabric you use for the smallest circle.  I didn't bother my "math" sister to calculate which one really has the largest surface area showing 'cause she'd launch into a technical description and I really don't care.  :-)  Two of the fabrics are going to be arcs and one is like a wedge of pie (if I'm cutting myself a slice).

Here's the smallest circle as I'm getting ready to cut it out.  I didn't take a photo when I did it, but it's much easier to cut out the circle if you trim your fabric into a rough square just a bit bigger than the circle first.

Here are the 3 circles that are going to go on my black fabric:

Now the fun starts!  Lay out your background square, face up, and center your largest circle, also face up, on top.  You can see that I've used my ruler to make sure it's centered.  I really consider that to be an optional step.  I only did it for the photograph and using the ruler wasn't necessary because I got it "spot on" without the ruler.

Pin the circle in place.  It really only needs two pins to keep it from slipping as you sew.  Make sure that they are far enough away from the edge of the circle to avoid hitting them with your machine's foot.

Sew from the front of the block.  This is one instance where "slow and steady" really does win the race.  It's easier to maneuver the curve at a slower pace.

One way to help pivot the fabric, is shown by the position of my left hand in this photo.  I'm "guiding" the fabric with my pointer finger but holding it down at the circle's center with my middle finger.  This creates a pivot point to force the fabric to rotate rather than go in a straight line.  Kathy Blomquist had this tip:  "You could use the thumb tack and tape trick to make sewing the circle easier. Position tack in the center of tape, sticky side down,then in center of your circle,position sewing line then press tape to machine bed to the left of the needle. It makes the fabric go in a circle."

Thanks for the tip, Kathy!

Sew all the way around the first circle about a ¼" from the outside edge.  A bit of wonkyness just adds to the charm of the finished block.

You can see that I did overlap the ends of my "seam" a bit.  I did this more as a habit than necessity.  You're going to be cutting the block right through the stitching so the overlap doesn't help.  I am using black thread so that it shows in the photographs but you can use whatever color you want!  I have some blocks in my quilt (shown below) that use a zig-zag stitch and others that have different colors of threads.  My quilt top was made from blocks from an exchange and I like the way the different blocks reflect their makers.

Yes, you are going to end up with the raw edges of all your circles showing.  Again, this is part of the block's charm!  To prevent bulk though, you're going to need to do some cutting.  Like right now!

This looks odd, but it will keep you from cutting the fabric you want to keep.  From the center of the square and the center of the circle, pull the two fabrics away from each other.  Right now, you want to protect the fabric circle as you cut the fabric square.  I know there's a square peg/round hole joke in here somewhere.

Once your fabrics are away from each other, cut a nick in the square (black fabric) inside the sewn line about ½" from the thread.  Now you can lay the block flat, wrong side up.  I wasn't thinking properly at the time and nicked mine in the middle.  It still works, but if you do it nearer the sewn line, you can end up with a circle that can be used on a future block.  I threw my semi-circle into my crumbs bin so it will get used eventually.

As you can see, the cutting isn't precise and doesn't need to be.  I'd say that I cut about ½" from the sewing. 

I ironed the block from the front after each cut.  It's not necessary but did help with the photos.
Next, you are going to add the 6" circle to the block.  I didn't "line it up", I just eyeballed it.  Pin and sew.

Again, you're going to have to remove some bulk (oh, if weight loss were only this easy!).  This time, you're going to be cutting fabric from the larger circle (blue fabric).

Now it's time to add the little bitty 4" circle.  When you pin this one, you really need to pay attention that you're leaving enough room for your presser foot to have clearance.

Once more, a little cutting is required.  This time, it's going to be the pink fabric.  By the time I got to the third circle, I'd figured out the bit about making the nick near the sewing line.  It doesn't take me all day to figure things out.  ;-)

You can stop now and have a lovely bulls eye block which will finish at 10½" square, or you can continue on to a bigger adventure with smaller blocks.  Is that an oxymoron?  Nope, don't think so.

If you've chosen to carry on, woohoo!  Now would be a good time to iron your block from the front.  Then with your block right sides up, whack it!  No, don't hit it.  You're going to cut it in half both directions.  This will give you four 5½" blocks.

Here is what the other block with the white background and different fabrics for the circles, looks like:

Now comes the really fun part:  setting options!

Just make a simple variation of the original block...

...or get a bit funky: 

Make a bunch of blocks using different background fabrics (remember the contrast though!) and different circles and play around with settings.  Here are a couple of the options I tried:

A simple diagonal setting:

Same diagonal but with the backgrounds separated (black/white on one side, white/black on the other):

Circles behind circles:

...and what I ultimately went with, sort of a wobbly squares effect:

Add borders of your own choosing.  I went with black and white but black and red would be very dramatic.

I hand-quilted this one on my Grace EZ3 frame.  I'm doing a stippled oak leaf in the black border, a simple () shape in the white border and a rose stippling in the blocks.  I'm  using a red/yellow/blue thread called Essentials, primary colors from Connecting Threads.

And here is the completed quilt:

As you can see, I created a scrappy binding for it.  I love scrappy binding against a "solid" border.

Here is a simplified version of the steps:

1. Cut 11" squares of background fabric.
2. Cut circles in 8", 6" and 4" sizes.
3. Center an 8" circle right-side up on a square also right-side up and sew ¼" in from the edge of the circle.
4. Flip block to the back and cut out the background fabric about ½" inside the sewn line.
5. Center a 6" circle right-side up, on the 8" circle; sew in place.
6. Cut out the back of the 8" circle about ½" inside the sewn line.
7. Center a 4" circle right-side up, on the 6" circle; sew in place.
8. Cut out the back of the 6" circle about ½" inside the sewn line.
9. Flip to the front and iron the block.  You can stop here for a 10½" finished block (boring).
10. Cut the block down the middle both directions.
11. Throw out all your inhibitions and mix those blocks up!
12. Sew your blocks together in your chosen setting with ¼" seams like any standard quilt.
13. Add borders (or not) of your choosing.
14. Sandwich, quilt and bind as desired.
15. Enjoy your new work of art!

This block is great for exchanges!  If you do it as an exchange (like my quilt above), follow all the steps through #10.  Keep one of the quarters of each block and swap the other three.  That way, your quilt will have some of your own blocks as well as those of other quilters.  This swap works really well if one person acts as host/hostess and "scatters" the blocks amongst the participants.  Don't forget that everyone would have to include a SASE to get their blocks back!

Happy Stitching!

Stacy

Framing Needlework Tutorial, part three - Framing!

Here's the third and final installment in this tutorial.  I hope it's been helpful so far.

I should tell you why I do my own framing.  The main reason is cost.  The second reason is having spent so many hours working on these projects, I really don't trust anyone else to have control over them.

Here's what I got and what it cost to do both these Santas.

From PictureFrames.com:

• Frame x 2
• Mats x 4
• Foamcore x 2
• Acrylic x 2
• Framing hardware x 2 (there's always left over clips, which I do save)

 The cost for all the above including shipping came to $95.53US or $47.77 per Santa. (That's a total £61.38; €87.61; $131.19AUD)

Additional costs would be the wrapping paper backing and the double-sided tape.  That's less than $2.  The last frame I purchased in a frame shop cost me $90US and that was just the frame!  No mats, glass, foamcore or hardware and I still did all the work!

Now on to the framing!

I pin my projects for framing rather than lacing.  Either way is fine, I just prefer the security of the pins.

You would need these items:

• Frame
• Mat(s), optional
• Spacers (only if no mats)
• Foamcore
• Acrylic or glass, UV protective is fine; non-glare will just make the stitching look blurry and isn't protective
• Stainless Steel Pins (even if lacing)
• Counting pins or large headed pins
• Thread - I use hand-quilting thread (unwaxed dental floss is also an option)
• Needle - this should be a sharp rather than blunt
• Screwdriver
• Wire cutters
• Awl, optional but very useful - I have misplaced mine so I had to do without
• Ruler 
• Some sort of blade - I use a quilting rotary cutter but a utility knife would work too
• Framing clips - what holds your piece in the frame, style may vary
• Wire
• Eye hooks (2)
• Brown paper or wrapping paper
• Camera if you want a photo of your framed project (you will take a photo during the framing process)
• Your completed cross stitch, of course

 Mounting the Fabric

This is the most important part of the process.  If you mess this up, it won't look good in the frame no matter how gorgeous (read, expensive) the frame is!

Oh, I should mention that in the photos Santa might appear to be having an identity crisis.  He couldn't make up his mind if he wanted to be wearing red or black.  Just depends on how photogenic he was feeling at the time.

Lay your piece face up on the foamcore:

Get it approximately centered on the foamcore.  Since I decided that I didn't want my "signature" to show, I'm ignoring it for this entire process.

Place a large-headed pin in the center of each side.  This is just to keep it from shifting while you measure.

The order doesn't really matter as long as you do opposites together (top/bottom or left/right).  I measured from the bottom of the stitching to the edge of the foamcore.  I then measured from the top of the stitching to the edge of the foamcore.

In the photos, the bottom was about 2.375" and the top was about 2.5".  I removed the  top and bottom pins to allow me to move the fabric slightly toward the top.  That increased the amount at the bottom and decreased the amount at the top to even it out.  It was a small amount so I didn't have to remove the pins on the sides for the little adjustment.  I replaced the top and bottom pins.

I measured the remaining sides of the project and make any necessary adjustments.

Now this is where I'd say I'm OCD...I'm not, but I seem to have the occasional OCD moment.

Using the counting pins (or other large-headed pins), count from the outside edge of your stitching to the edge of your foamcore.  Ok, I didn't use large-headed pins to count but I was too lazy to get off my butt and grab some.  In this photo, the uppermost twig is the stitching at the edge of the design.  My count is based from the hole that lines up with the twig.  The first pin is 25 holes and the second is at 50 holes from the stitching.  Using multiple pins helps keep you (me really) from losing count.

I kept counting until my pin lined up with the center of the foamcore edge.  It ended up being 62 holes.  I then counted 62 holes from the opposite side of my stitching towards the center of the foamcore edge.  Hmm, 62 holes was a tad bit short so I went to 64 which was still a tiny bit off from the center of the foamcore (where the real, large-headed pin is).  Switching one side to 64 meant that I had to change the other to 64 as well. Making that adjustment let me put pins in the foamcore on both sides at the same distance from the stitching.

I moved my large-headed pins into the "64 hole" and then counted in the other direction (in this case, top and bottom).  The measurements top and bottom also came out to 64 holes.  This is not always the case!  I was really surprised with this one because the fabric is true linen which isn't always "square" due to the fabric threads being uneven thicknesses.  Again, I switched my bigger pins to the appropriate hole.

Now comes the fun hard-on-the-fingers part:  pinning!  You should do this even if you are going to lace your piece.  The pins act as dozens of extra hands to hold the fabric while you lace.

The pins I use are stainless steel because they won't rust!  They are 1" long with small but noticeable heads.

I usually start on one of the long sides, in the middle.  I work from the middle to one corner, then from the middle to the other corner.  I don't measure how far apart they really are but I'd guess ½" - ¾".  Until I have them all in along one side, I leave them sticking out.  I don't think there is a particular reason why I do, I just do.

Once they're all spaced, I push them in.  Sorry it's hard to see in the photo.  I think the little beggars are camera-shy.

I then do the opposite side the same way.  I think I do the long edges first because when I get to the third side, I'm definitely more than half-way done.  I do the same along the other two sides and voila! the pinning is done.

Hmm, there's all that extra fabric  What to do, what to do?  Truss it up I suppose!

I started at the bottom left corner.  Folded the point of the fabric in. 

Folded the excess from one side than the other.  This is when I needed the needle and thread.  I use a single thread of hand-quilting thread.  I ran it through the folded fabric and tied a knot.  I should mention that I'm a bit lazy.  Rather than have to cut more thread part-way through, I use a really looonnngg length of thread - probably close to two-yards long.

I then went to the bottom right corner and folded the fabric the same way.  I ran the needle and thread through the corner fabric like in the photo above.  I then zig-zagged my way up the sides (the narrow way) until I reached the top corners.  I do really big zigs and zags.  If you are ultimately lacing your project (removing the pins), you would want to space your zig-zags close together like the pins were and keep the thread as tight as you can.

When I got to the first top corner, I folded it like the previous corners and anchored it with the thread.  I then started zig-zagging from top to bottom (the long length), until I reached the remaining corner.  The corner got folded, threaded and then the thread got knotted off.  I only lace to keep the excess fabric from flopping around like a fish - my pins stay put.  If you are lacing your project, now is when you would remove the pins.

Here it is from the front, looking all tidy.

Whew!  The hard part is done!

Framing the Piece

When I got the box containing my 2 frames, they were well-packaged!  I had a little "prep work" to get them ready to use.  The acrylic had a protective sheet on each side which needed to be removed.  The mats were protected by the 2 pieces of foamcore so I had to separate them (they were lightly taped).

I took the frame and put it face down on my work table.  I then popped in the appropriate mats (white/maroon) and the red Santa.  At this point, that's all I did - no acrylic, no clips, nothing else.  I turned the whole thing over and took a photo.

Sometimes, I hang it on the wall to photograph it but this was easier at the time.  The reason that I photograph it now is no glare or reflections!  It is completely framed/matted and perfectly photogenic.

I disassembled it, put in the acrylic, added the mats, and then popped in Santa.  Now is the time I really looked at it and checked everything.  I made sure there are no fingerprints or dust on the acrylic (the second one took forever to clean - there was a lot of fuzz and fingerprints).  I checked to make sure the mats were aligned properly (they are two separate pieces so they do shift).  I made sure Santa had the same amount of space all around him.

Then I carefully turned him back over and clipped everything into place.  The clips I used came with the frame.

These clips rock!  They are made for one end to fit in the channel on the frame and the other puts just enough pressure on the piece to keep it in place.  They also don't need any special tools, just thumbs!
I started on the long edge and put one near the corner, one near the center and the last one at the corner.  Across the narrow edge, I only used one in the center.

I like to make my framing look as tidy as possible.  I also don't want dust or anything else to get to my fabric so I like to really finish off the back.  I started by putting two-way (2-sided tape) all the way around the back of the frame.  I like to get it as close as possible to the edge.  Since this tape doesn't come in contact with my fabric, I actually use the tape from my trophy shop.  It's not acid-free but like I said, it doesn't touch my fabric.  It's the yellow around the edge.

I could use regular brown paper like grocery bags or parcel wrapping for mailing, but this is a Santa - Christmas wrapping paper!

I cut a piece slightly larger than the entire frame.  The paper is actually sitting on the frame here:

I take it off and peel the yellow paper off one of the tape strips.  I started with one on the narrow edge.  If you look closely at the photo of the tape, you will see that the long strips go to the edge of the frame and the narrow strips fit between the long ones.  By pulling a narrow one first, I still had easy access to the paper on the long strips.  You'll thank me later for that tip!

I put the Christmas paper back over the frame and carefully pressed it onto the one exposed tape working from the center out.  Then I uncovered the tape on the other narrow edge and  keeping the wrapping paper taut, I pressed that end down.  I then did the same to the two remaining sides.

Now I needed to trim the excess paper.  This is when it's handy to have other hobbies - you can "steal" the tools from them.  I used a quilting ruler and rotary cutter.  If you are a quilter, don't freak out - I have a rotary cutter that I use just for stuff like this and a separate one for actual quilting projects.

First I just finger-pressed the paper over the edge of the frame so that I could see where the edge was.

I then put my ruler as close to the edge as possible and whacked off the excess with the rotary cutter.

Here it is all trimmed up:

Now I need to measure for my hanging wire.  I took these photos before I put the paper on because there was better contrast.  I measured the overall height of the frame. You always measure from top to bottom for this step even if your piece is wider than it is tall.  My frame is just under 16½" tall.

Then I measured from the top edge, down just a bit over 4".  The rule of thumb for hanging with wire is to be down ¼ of the overall height.  16.5 ÷ 4 = 4.125 (or 4 1/8").  For the photos, I made a mark down 4 1/8" from the top on both sides.  Normally, I just measure down and use my awl to make a pilot hole.

Now here's a tip from the sad voice of experience.  As you can see in the above photo, my mark is near the edge of the frame.  That's not a problem as long as you check your frame first!  If you have a frame that has a profile like this:

and you tried to place the screw/eye hook for your hanger in the thinner area on the left without checking the length of the screw vs. the thickness of the frame, your screw might end up poking out the front of the frame. Yes, I have had that happen.  Thankfully once was all it took for me to learn that lesson!

Now I attached the hanging hardware.  In this instance, they are eye hooks.  The screwdriver is much easier to hang on to than that tiny little eye hook. So 'round and 'round goes the screwdriver.  I made sure that the base of the eye just barely came into contact with the back of the frame.

The eye should also end up parallel to the side of the frame.

Next I had to attached the wire to the eye hook.  I made a loop near the end of my wire and inserted it in the eye hook.

Then I took the end of the wire and fed it through the loop and pulled it snug.  The excess end wire got wrapped around the main wire.  You may end up using the plier part of your wire cutters to twist the very tip as close to the main wire as possible to prevent it catching on the paper, your finger, etc.

Most of the time, I have way more wire than I need - hence the wire cutters.  I tightly pulled the wire across to the other eye hook then gave it a little slack and made a loop like before.  Once I'd done this, I could see how much excess wire I really had and I cut off the extra.

Just in case you don't know what wire cutters look like, here you go:

These are needle-nose pliers with a wire cutter.  The very base of the "v" of the pliers is the wire cutter.

Here is how much slack I left in the wire.  It doesn't need much, but it does have to have some or it would be impossible to adjust the way the frame hangs.

For reference, the top of the frame is on the left.

Now for the Santas to finally be seen together:

Happy Stitching!

Stacy